Just back from Cuba...and so much has changed for the worse

[pedromendes]

It's been a long time since I've posted because to be honest, I haven't had something useful to add. But I just came back from the island last Thursday and wanted to share some things I experienced.

First off, I spent a week in Cuba recording a radio documentary about tobacco - its role in Cuban culture, history, religion and people's lives. I trace the making of a cigar, from seed to roller, as the narrative arch of the story. I spent 2 days at Hector Luis' farm, then the rest in Havana. Sadly, I couldn't get behind the scenes access to any warehouses or factories, but thankfully Hector does the entire process on his farm.

Here's the good news: Hector's farm (despite last year's hurricane) is a gorgeous place to visit with absolutely lovely people. And his farm rolls, while stronger and larger than I usually prefer, are well balanced and flavourful. Meanwhile, Arnaldo Osvalles is rolling at Melia Habana and his pyramid was the best cigar I had all week. I came home with about 30 of his pyramids, BHK52s and lonsdales. And with a lot of searching, there is still excellent (if basic) food in Havana. I also had a fantastic conversation with the former director of the tobacco museum, Zoe Nocedo, at Abel's. She is wonderful and Abel's is still looking good.

The bad news: as a tobacco farmer told me, "Cuba is a country in ruins." So, so many people have left. There are shortages of everything essential, outside of Havana. When I asked an older farmer if things were worse now than in the 90s, he said yes. Not necessarily because of the deprivation, but because their hope is gone. I honestly can't see myself returning, but I will try to help from afar as much as I can.

As a cigar lover, there was also disappointment. We all know about the ridiculous price increases, but it almost doesn't matter because the humidors I visited (Nacional and Melia Habana) were almost empty, just lots of boxes of little RyJs and Partagas. My heartbreak was at Conde de Villanueva, which used to be one of my favourite spots. With Reynaldo gone, the place is hollowed out, almost literally. No production cigars available except the 2 or 3 boxes I saw on display. There was a lonely roller in the corner, but I didn't even want to try what he had.

I'll be working on my documentary over the next few months and can't wait to share it will you all. (Photos with Arnaldo, Zoe and Hector)

[El Presidente]

Wishing you every success with the doco! 

The situation in Cuba is devastating.

As for the Cuban cigar industry, it  is a shadow of its former self. It is largely in ruins. 

[westg]

13 hours ago, pedromendes said:

It's been a long time since I've posted because to be honest, I haven't had something useful to add. But I just came back from the island last Thursday and wanted to share some things I experienced.

First off, I spent a week in Cuba recording a radio documentary about tobacco - its role in Cuban culture, history, religion and people's lives. I trace the making of a cigar, from seed to roller, as the narrative arch of the story. I spent 2 days at Hector Luis' farm, then the rest in Havana. Sadly, I couldn't get behind the scenes access to any warehouses or factories, but thankfully Hector does the entire process on his farm.

Here's the good news: Hector's farm (despite last year's hurricane) is a gorgeous place to visit with absolutely lovely people. And his farm rolls, while stronger and larger than I usually prefer, are well balanced and flavourful. Meanwhile, Arnaldo Osvalles is rolling at Melia Habana and his pyramid was the best cigar I had all week. I came home with about 30 of his pyramids, BHK52s and lonsdales. And with a lot of searching, there is still excellent (if basic) food in Havana. I also had a fantastic conversation with the former director of the tobacco museum, Zoe Nocedo, at Abel's. She is wonderful and Abel's is still looking good.

The bad news: as a tobacco farmer told me, "Cuba is a country in ruins." So, so many people have left. There are shortages of everything essential, outside of Havana. When I asked an older farmer if things were worse now than in the 90s, he said yes. Not necessarily because of the deprivation, but because their hope is gone. I honestly can't see myself returning, but I will try to help from afar as much as I can.

As a cigar lover, there was also disappointment. We all know about the ridiculous price increases, but it almost doesn't matter because the humidors I visited (Nacional and Melia Habana) were almost empty, just lots of boxes of little RyJs and Partagas. My heartbreak was at Conde de Villanueva, which used to be one of my favourite spots. With Reynaldo gone, the place is hollowed out, almost literally. No production cigars available except the 2 or 3 boxes I saw on display. There was a lonely roller in the corner, but I didn't even want to try what he had.

I'll be working on my documentary over the next few months and can't wait to share it will you all. (Photos with Arnaldo, Zoe and Hector)

Thanks, great pics and info 👍 

[pedromendes]

Hey again all, my doc about Cuban tobacco and cigars is finally done. It will air tonight on CBC Radio One at 8pm (after the news) on the show "Ideas." It's also in their podcast feed. Or you can listen to it via the play button on this page, which contains a very truncated version of my story: https://www.cbc.ca/radio/ideas/cuban-cigar-tobacco-farming-1.7099158
Really curious to hear what people think.... although I'm sure little of it will come as a surprise to this community.

[LOMTL]

1 hour ago, pedromendes said:

Hey again all, my doc about Cuban tobacco and cigars is finally done. It will air tonight on CBC Radio One at 8pm (after the news) on the show "Ideas." It's also in their podcast feed. Or you can listen to it via the play button on this page, which contains a very truncated version of my story: https://www.cbc.ca/radio/ideas/cuban-cigar-tobacco-farming-1.7099158
Really curious to hear what people think.... although I'm sure little of it will come as a surprise to this community.

Thanks! Looking forward to listening to it.

[HoyoDC]

On 10/30/2023 at 3:41 AM, pedromendes said:

It's been a long time since I've posted because to be honest, I haven't had something useful to add. But I just came back from the island last Thursday and wanted to share some things I experienced.

First off, I spent a week in Cuba recording a radio documentary about tobacco - its role in Cuban culture, history, religion and people's lives. I trace the making of a cigar, from seed to roller, as the narrative arch of the story. I spent 2 days at Hector Luis' farm, then the rest in Havana. Sadly, I couldn't get behind the scenes access to any warehouses or factories, but thankfully Hector does the entire process on his farm.

Here's the good news: Hector's farm (despite last year's hurricane) is a gorgeous place to visit with absolutely lovely people. And his farm rolls, while stronger and larger than I usually prefer, are well balanced and flavourful. Meanwhile, Arnaldo Osvalles is rolling at Melia Habana and his pyramid was the best cigar I had all week. I came home with about 30 of his pyramids, BHK52s and lonsdales. And with a lot of searching, there is still excellent (if basic) food in Havana. I also had a fantastic conversation with the former director of the tobacco museum, Zoe Nocedo, at Abel's. She is wonderful and Abel's is still looking good.

The bad news: as a tobacco farmer told me, "Cuba is a country in ruins." So, so many people have left. There are shortages of everything essential, outside of Havana. When I asked an older farmer if things were worse now than in the 90s, he said yes. Not necessarily because of the deprivation, but because their hope is gone. I honestly can't see myself returning, but I will try to help from afar as much as I can.

As a cigar lover, there was also disappointment. We all know about the ridiculous price increases, but it almost doesn't matter because the humidors I visited (Nacional and Melia Habana) were almost empty, just lots of boxes of little RyJs and Partagas. My heartbreak was at Conde de Villanueva, which used to be one of my favourite spots. With Reynaldo gone, the place is hollowed out, almost literally. No production cigars available except the 2 or 3 boxes I saw on display. There was a lonely roller in the corner, but I didn't even want to try what he had.

I'll be working on my documentary over the next few months and can't wait to share it will you all. (Photos with Arnaldo, Zoe and Hector)

Cannot wait to see it. So sad.to hear, not just as a cigar lover, but also to see the drive and joy stripped out of a very joyful nation.

[Puros Y Vino]

Great work @pedromendes Just listened to it on my way in.  Nice to see that the CBC put this online given our governments' anti-tobacco stance.  I'm saddened by the current state of affairs down there.  I've visited Hectors farm.  It's quite the idyllic setting.  I hope it's able to recover and flourish.  

[pedromendes]

5 hours ago, Puros Y Vino said:

Great work @pedromendes Just listened to it on my way in.  Nice to see that the CBC put this online given our governments' anti-tobacco stance.  I'm saddened by the current state of affairs down there.  I've visited Hectors farm.  It's quite the idyllic setting.  I hope it's able to recover and flourish.  

Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. To be fair, what delighted me was my producer at CBC wanting me to put in the section at the end detailing how great the cigar was. 

And I'm sure Hector will continue to do well. But the growing divide between the haves and have-nots in Cuba is disturbing and depressing.

[eaglebear29]

Thanks for the info, looking forward to your documentary. 

[helix]

The INTERNECINE Cuban government is on a roll. Very sad.

[pedromendes]

17 hours ago, eaglebear29 said:

Thanks for the info, looking forward to your documentary. 

You can listen now! There's a play button at the top of this page: https://www.cbc.ca/radio/ideas/cuban-cigar-tobacco-farming-1.7099158

[eaglebear29]

Awesome will do, thank you. 

[MrBirdman]

7 hours ago, pedromendes said:

You can listen now! There's a play button at the top of this page: https://www.cbc.ca/radio/ideas/cuban-cigar-tobacco-farming-1.7099158

This is excellent work. Thank you for sharing. 

[MagicalBikeRide]

This was excellent. Thanks @pedromendes

[eaglebear29]

Great Job.Thank you

[rckymtn22]

Heard the documentary on CBC before I saw this posting, didn't expect it to be done by a member here.  Great work, enjoyed it!