Popular Post BTWheezy Posted December 27, 2020 Popular Post Posted December 27, 2020 Hi friends...I’m back for another humidor build, this time for a friend and fellow FOH’er @NicPac. Nick and I have been talking about this for some time now, and with the holidays behind us, I’m ready to get started. When I talked with Nick a few days ago and told him that the timing was good to get started, his reply was “Well, get to cuttin’ b*tch!” This build will be interesting for me because we are trying to incorporate a rustic look, while at the same time keeping true to its primary function as humidor (consistent temp and humidity). Those two ideas don’t necessarily go hand-in-hand! I don’t know how it’s all going to turn out. It might be spectacular, or it might be a spectacular failure. Either way, you’ll have a front row seat! Today was shop clean-up and a first-pass at a prototype. The design lines are starting to shape up in my mind, but the prototype is far from finalized, and not to scale. For those who enjoy this kind of stuff, thanks for following along. Questions and comments are always welcome. - Wheezy 35 1
GVan Posted December 27, 2020 Posted December 27, 2020 Can't wait - loved following your last build! 1
Popular Post NicPac Posted December 27, 2020 Popular Post Posted December 27, 2020 Yeesssss!!! The sawdust has begun! The best part of following along with this build is I get to take it home afterwards ? 8 3
rcarlson Posted December 27, 2020 Posted December 27, 2020 I'll keep an eye on things too. . . so he doesn't cut corners on the interior ventilation like last time. 1 1
JohnS Posted December 27, 2020 Posted December 27, 2020 Questions? What's the score in the background? (Thanks in advance! ?) 1
Popular Post BTWheezy Posted December 27, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted December 27, 2020 40 minutes ago, rcarlson said: I'll keep an eye on things too. . . so he doesn't cut corners on the interior ventilation like last time. For newer members, Rob is referring to his spurious allegation of poor craftsmanship in the WheezyCab because I didn’t line some ventilation holes with Spanish cedar. The good news is that with @rcarlson, Attorney at Law, following this thread there will be plenty of ventilation (a.k.a. hot air) for all to enjoy. 10
Rhinoww Posted December 27, 2020 Posted December 27, 2020 I do love a good build. keep us posted. shop cleanup and hand tool sharpening are always a satisfying start. 1
Bijan Posted December 28, 2020 Posted December 28, 2020 1 hour ago, JohnS said: Questions? What's the score in the background? (Thanks in advance! ?) Looks like 3-3. Early second quarter I'd guess. 2
rcarlson Posted December 28, 2020 Posted December 28, 2020 1 hour ago, BTWheezy said: For newer members, Rob is referring to his spurious allegation of poor craftsmanship in the WheezyCab because I didn’t line some ventilation holes with Spanish cedar. The good news is that with @rcarlson, Attorney at Law, following this thread there will be plenty of ventilation (a.k.a. hot air) for all to enjoy. 2
Connoisseur Kim Posted December 28, 2020 Posted December 28, 2020 Good to see you're still kickin with crafting new cigar cabinet @BTWheezy! ?
Smatthews607 Posted December 28, 2020 Posted December 28, 2020 Those are either the largest hand tools in the world or you are building a cabinet for the smallest cigar collection ever! Can't wait to see the progress. 2
Popular Post BTWheezy Posted December 29, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted December 29, 2020 A quick update for Dec 28th... Getting case elements cut to size. This is going to be a big cabinet for a one-man, hobbyist operation. Nick says “make it as big as you’re comfortable” so the case itself will be 40”H x 24”D x 54”W, which equates to approximately 101cm x 61cm x 137cm. Further metric conversions are left to the viewer. Making the case from 7-ply 1/2” Baltic birch plywood. The reason for the 1/2” case is that there’s going to be an additional layer of real wood on the outside, in hopes of achieving as close as we can get to a rustic look (still seeking a source for reclaimed planks though). Also, I’m thinking of using some 1/2” insulation foam board to help with a thicker edge profile, and also help with temp consistency. So 1/2” ply it is for the case. 1. Ripping to width. 2. Cutting to length using a crosscut sled. Mentioned this before in previous threads, but a sled is the best for safety and accuracy. 3. Sides, tops and bottoms are done. 10
lovethehaze Posted December 29, 2020 Posted December 29, 2020 That’s a big cabinet nice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
Popular Post El Presidente Posted December 29, 2020 Popular Post Posted December 29, 2020 Brilliant!!! .....like the last build..... I won't understand a thing....but it makes me confident enough to go to the "Rob Approved toolbox" that the staff have provided me at work. 1 9
Wookie Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 NIce! What kind of wood you anticipating for exterior veneer? How thick? What means of adhesion? Baltic ply should be stable so no worries about wood movement if veneer not too thick, right? Very interested in the construction!
BTWheezy Posted December 30, 2020 Author Posted December 30, 2020 16 hours ago, Wookie said: NIce! What kind of wood you anticipating for exterior veneer? How thick? What means of adhesion? Baltic ply should be stable so no worries about wood movement if veneer not too thick, right? Very interested in the construction! The exterior will likely be walnut, with a dark stain. Will be collaborating with @NicPac when the project gets there. Exterior wood will be somewhere around 1/4” to 1/2” thick, and will (probably) be glued and tacked into place. You’re correct, Baltic ply is stable AF, so the case will be good to go. ?? 2 1
Popular Post BTWheezy Posted December 30, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted December 30, 2020 Minor update, OCD Department... Well, not really OCD, but rather necessary due to nature of the project. In the previous post, I’d updated with my crosscut sled, which (usually) allows for consistent, balls-on 90-degree cuts. After the main cuts for the case from the Dec 28th update, I was measuring the pieces for next cuts, and found them to be off by 1/32” or more. Not sure what happened to my sled since the last big project, but the base fence had deflected (deformed?) away from true 90 degrees. So yesterday’s time was spent to true-up the fence, using playing cards and a new piece of wood. A pain in the a$$, but necessary for the project. A drafty, gap-filled humidor isn’t part of the program! 6
Wookie Posted December 30, 2020 Posted December 30, 2020 You are a better man than I am.....I've had tough luck with my sleds in the past. I ended up getting a festool TS 55 and FS 1400 guide tracks to do my panel cuts....but that has been mostly/all for paint grade cabinets....wonder how it would do for custom fine furniture?? It has done a good job over the years for paint grade. Can't wait to see this project develop. Do you think doing a vacuum press veneer would be a bad way to go for the walnut? Keep up the good work @BTWheezy!
Popular Post BTWheezy Posted December 30, 2020 Author Popular Post Posted December 30, 2020 Update for December 30... I learned quite a lot from the assembly of the Wheezycab. One key thing was to pre-drill the pilot holes for the screws so that I wasn’t scrambling during glue up and assembly of the main pieces. Made a big difference! Today was focused on getting the core structure pulled together, glued-and-screwed, and pretty stable for the next steps. @NicPac and I have a friend from the club we belong to who has a cabinet shop. This friend is my new source of Spanish cedar and walnut, which is awesome. Anyway, he was commenting that his shop runs at 1/128th” accuracy! Even though I’m very happy how the NicPac Cab is shaping up, it’s along the lines of 1/32”, maybe 1/64th” accuracy, and I’m spending a lot of time on this. Point being...SERIOUS PROPS to pro cabinet shops and the guys/gals that do this for a living. 1. Drilling pilot holes. 2. Assembly process for the main structure. 3. Today’s work is done, time for chillin’ with the family. ? - Wheezy 13
... Posted December 31, 2020 Posted December 31, 2020 12 hours ago, BTWheezy said: The exterior will likely be walnut, with a dark stain. Will be collaborating with @NicPac when the project gets there. Exterior wood will be somewhere around 1/4” to 1/2” thick, and will (probably) be glued and tacked into place. You’re correct, Baltic ply is stable AF, so the case will be good to go. ?? Have to agree about Baltic plywood, did my drawers and platform for the car and it doesn’t seem to mind humidity or temperature fluctuations, very stable stuff 1
Chibearsv Posted January 1, 2021 Posted January 1, 2021 On 12/30/2020 at 4:55 PM, BTWheezy said: @NicPac and I have a friend from the club we belong to who has a cabinet shop. This friend is my new source of Spanish cedar and walnut, which is awesome. Anyway, he was commenting that his shop runs at 1/128th” accuracy! Even though I’m very happy how the NicPac Cab is shaping up, it’s along the lines of 1/32”, maybe 1/64th” accuracy, and I’m spending a lot of time on this. Point being...SERIOUS PROPS to pro cabinet shops and the guys/gals that do this for a living. Props to them but major props to you for your skill and for publicizing your work. You are too humble. At 1/4"+ accuracy, you're starting to enter my realm of comprehension. 1
Popular Post BTWheezy Posted January 1, 2021 Author Popular Post Posted January 1, 2021 Happy New Year everyone! ? Update from New Year’s Eve day... I’m waiting on access to Spanish cedar and walnut, for interior and exterior work respectively. The guy I’m getting it from returns from vacation next week, so that’s cool. In the meantime, there was a task that is just flat-out boring, time-consuming, but necessary: drawer work. The NicPac Cab will have a total of 9 drawers, which requires a lot of prep. The singles drawers and the accessory drawer will be 5” deep. The internal drawers for storing boxes will be more like 2” deep sliding trays. Several hours, and a few Advil later, the first phase of drawer work is done. ?? 1. Ripping more Baltic birch to width. 2. Drawer blanks done. 3. 1/8” round-over router bit to soften all edges to a consistent profile. 4. A Christmas Miracle. 5. (Mind-and-hand numbing amount of sanding down to 150-grit smoothness not pictured). 6. Drawer blanks ready for 2021! Best wishes to all for health, happiness, and a return to normal-ish life this year! - Wheezy 10
BTWheezy Posted January 1, 2021 Author Posted January 1, 2021 On 12/30/2020 at 11:01 AM, Wookie said: You are a better man than I am.....I've had tough luck with my sleds in the past. I ended up getting a festool TS 55 and FS 1400 guide tracks to do my panel cuts....but that has been mostly/all for paint grade cabinets....wonder how it would do for custom fine furniture?? It has done a good job over the years for paint grade. Can't wait to see this project develop. Do you think doing a vacuum press veneer would be a bad way to go for the walnut? Keep up the good work @BTWheezy! I’ve lusted after Festool for years, but never pulled the trigger. How do you like those tools? I don’t own a vacuum press, so that’s not an option for the NicPac Cab. Given the thickness of the walnut stock, and the possibility of using sheet insulation, I think glue and small gauge nails will be the best approach. For the right project, veneer and vacuum presses are perfect...from what I’ve read. ?
Fugu Posted January 1, 2021 Posted January 1, 2021 On 12/31/2020 at 5:38 AM, Jeanff said: Have to agree about Baltic plywood, did my drawers and platform for the car and it doesn’t seem to mind humidity or temperature fluctuations, very stable stuff Stable, yes, but try to find an even/flat sheet, in particular with the thinner qualities. No issues there @BTWheezy?
BTWheezy Posted January 1, 2021 Author Posted January 1, 2021 2 minutes ago, Fugu said: Stable, yes, but try to find an even/flat sheet, in particular with the thinner qualities. No issues there @BTWheezy? Yeah, it can be a bit squirrelly, can’t it! I’ve found that when it gets cut into smaller dimensions, it (generally) becomes workable. That said, I also pay attention to any deflections in larger pieces, and compensate with glue-and-screws. In a cab like this, with accurate dimensions and a robust amount of “physical readjustment” the cab and drawers should be square and good to go. Your point is well-taken though; Baltic birch ply is wonderfully stable, solid/dense, and has almost zero voids. But it’s almost never flat at the start. Typical US (or Canadian) plywood from the big box stores is generally flat, but is prone to voids, and not nearly as dense. I wonder why that is? 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now