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Hi friends...I’m back for another humidor build, this time for a friend and fellow FOH’er @NicPac.  Nick and I have been talking about this for some time now, and with the holidays behind us, I’m read

@BTWheezy ‘s masterpiece made it to its new home safely. Wheezy was kind enough to run it for a week or so prior to it’s departure so when it got to my place all it needed was to be plugged in and fil

Time for finish.  Using Minwax satin water-based polyurethane, as mentioned previously. Zero odor, easy clean-up, fast drying. It’s a win.  Also figured out how I wanted to attach the top (from the bo

Posted

Can't wait - loved following your last build!

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Posted
1 hour ago, JohnS said:

Questions? What's the score in the background? (Thanks in advance! ?)

Looks like 3-3.  Early second quarter I'd guess.

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Posted
1 hour ago, BTWheezy said:

For newer members, Rob is referring to his spurious allegation of poor craftsmanship in the WheezyCab because I didn’t line some ventilation holes with Spanish cedar.  The good news is that with @rcarlson, Attorney at Law, following this thread there will be plenty of ventilation (a.k.a. hot air) for all to enjoy. 

 

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Posted

Those are either the largest hand tools in the world or you are building a cabinet for the smallest cigar collection ever!

Can't wait to see the progress.

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Posted

NIce! What kind of wood you anticipating for exterior veneer? How thick? What means of adhesion? Baltic ply should be stable so no worries about wood movement if veneer not too thick, right? Very interested in the construction! 

Posted
16 hours ago, Wookie said:

NIce! What kind of wood you anticipating for exterior veneer? How thick? What means of adhesion? Baltic ply should be stable so no worries about wood movement if veneer not too thick, right? Very interested in the construction! 

The exterior will likely be walnut, with a dark stain.  Will be collaborating with @NicPac when the project gets there. Exterior wood will be somewhere around 1/4” to 1/2” thick, and will (probably) be glued and tacked into place.  You’re correct, Baltic ply is stable AF, so the case will be good to go.  ??

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Posted

You are a better man than I am.....I've had tough luck with my sleds in the past. I ended up getting a festool TS 55 and FS 1400 guide tracks to do my panel cuts....but that has been mostly/all for paint grade cabinets....wonder how it would do for custom fine furniture?? It has done a good job over the years for paint grade. Can't wait to see this project develop. Do you think doing a vacuum press veneer would be a bad way to go for the walnut? Keep up the good work @BTWheezy

Posted
12 hours ago, BTWheezy said:

The exterior will likely be walnut, with a dark stain.  Will be collaborating with @NicPac when the project gets there. Exterior wood will be somewhere around 1/4” to 1/2” thick, and will (probably) be glued and tacked into place.  You’re correct, Baltic ply is stable AF, so the case will be good to go.  ??

Have to agree about Baltic plywood, did my drawers and platform for the car and it doesn’t seem to mind humidity or temperature fluctuations, very stable stuff

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Posted
On 12/30/2020 at 4:55 PM, BTWheezy said:

 

@NicPac and I have a friend from the club we belong to who has a cabinet shop.  This friend is my new source of Spanish cedar and walnut, which is awesome.  Anyway, he was commenting that his shop runs at 1/128th” accuracy!  Even though I’m very happy how the NicPac Cab is shaping up, it’s along the lines of 1/32”, maybe 1/64th” accuracy, and I’m spending a lot of time on this. Point being...SERIOUS PROPS to pro cabinet shops and the guys/gals that do this for a living. 

Props to them but major props to you for your skill and for publicizing your work.  You are too humble.  At 1/4"+ accuracy, you're starting to enter my realm of comprehension.

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Posted
On 12/30/2020 at 11:01 AM, Wookie said:

You are a better man than I am.....I've had tough luck with my sleds in the past. I ended up getting a festool TS 55 and FS 1400 guide tracks to do my panel cuts....but that has been mostly/all for paint grade cabinets....wonder how it would do for custom fine furniture?? It has done a good job over the years for paint grade. Can't wait to see this project develop. Do you think doing a vacuum press veneer would be a bad way to go for the walnut? Keep up the good work @BTWheezy

I’ve lusted after Festool for years, but never pulled the trigger. How do you like those tools?

I don’t own a vacuum press, so that’s not an option for the NicPac Cab.  Given the thickness of the walnut stock, and the possibility of using sheet insulation, I think glue and small gauge nails will be the best approach.

For the right project, veneer and vacuum presses are perfect...from what I’ve read.  ?

Posted
On 12/31/2020 at 5:38 AM, Jeanff said:

Have to agree about Baltic plywood, did my drawers and platform for the car and it doesn’t seem to mind humidity or temperature fluctuations, very stable stuff

Stable, yes, but try to find an even/flat sheet, in particular with the thinner qualities. No issues there @BTWheezy?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Fugu said:

Stable, yes, but try to find an even/flat sheet, in particular with the thinner qualities. No issues there @BTWheezy?

Yeah, it can be a bit squirrelly, can’t it!  I’ve found that when it gets cut into smaller dimensions, it (generally) becomes workable.  That said, I also pay attention to any deflections in larger pieces, and compensate with glue-and-screws. In a cab like this, with accurate dimensions and a robust amount of “physical readjustment” the cab and drawers should be square and good to go.

Your point is well-taken though;  Baltic birch ply is wonderfully stable, solid/dense, and has almost zero voids. But it’s almost never flat at the start.  Typical US (or Canadian) plywood from the big box stores is generally flat, but is prone to voids, and not nearly as dense.   I wonder why that is?

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