breakfast

[Ken Gargett]

so, is it the most important meal of the day?

do you just grab whatever or do you have a strict regimen that must not vary? do you occasionally splurge?

are you a muesli guy, a cereal person, snags and eggs, toast and jam, just coffee? 

what would be your perfect breakfast?

 

for those interested in what brekkie used to be, thought this might be of interest.

10 Breakfasts from a Century Ago That No One Eats Anymore

Photo by Jay Paull / Contributor via Getty Images

This isn't your grandmother's breakfast—but it may have been her mom's

KAT KINSMAN 

April 04, 2018

It might be tough to imagine a world before avocado toast, Pop-Tarts, and lattes of all stripes, but somehow, our forebears managed to feed themselves in the morning. Some of the everyday and extravagant breakfast foods that were the toast of the town at the beginning of the 20th century are all but lost these days. Some companies shuttered their factories, other dishes and ingredients fell out of favor, and still more just proved too labor-intensive to produce. Extra Crispy pored through a trove of menus, periodicals, and cookbooks of the era to find 10 foods that have earned their place on history's breakfast plate.

Snowflake Toast

The word snowflake has taken on a derisive connotation in recent years, but in the 1890s and early 1900s, it was all the rage in the health-nut set. Menus for the Kellogg family's Battle Creek Sanitarium and several cookbooks of the era (including one penned by the very experimental Mrs. Ella Ervilla Kellogg, who ran the kitchen at the facility) touted a zwieback Snowflake Toast topped with a frothy mixture of eggs, flour, milk, and salt. It likely wasn't nearly as picture-perfect as the Unicorn Toast of a century and change later, but frankly, it sounds much cooler.

Snowflake Toast

Heat to boiling a quart of milk to which a half cup of cream, and a little salt have been added. Thicken with a tablespoonful of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk. Have ready the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth; and when the sauce is well cooked, turn a cupful of it on the beaten egg, stirring well meanwhile so that it will form a light, frothy mixture, to which add the remainder of the sauce. If the sauce is not sufficiently hot to coagulate the albumen, it may be heated again almost to the boiling point, but should not be allowed to boil. The sauce should be of a light, frothy consistency throughout. Serve as dressing on nicely moistened slices of zwieback. —Science in the Kitchen by Mrs. E. E. Kellogg (1893)

Bar-le-Duc Jam

Photo by AFP Contributor via Getty Images

Mary, Queen of Scots is said to have referred to the signature preserve of Bar-le-Duc, France, as "a ray of sunshine in a jar." By the early 20th century, it was still co-starring alongside grape and berry spreads on plenty of menus, but its renown has since faded. It's not that the jam wasn't delicious, but the labor required to make it was so intense and expensive that after World War II, the required resources ust weren't feasible. To make it, using a goose quill, skilled workers must individually de-seed currants, leaving the fruit otherwise intact so it retains a caviar-like pop. The pulp-filled fruit is added to boiling syrup, then decanted into little faceted glass jars. Lovely, yes. Practical—much less so.

Stewed Prunes

Prunes get a bum rap in modern cuisine, most likely because many of us so closely associate the dried plums as a cure suggested by our elder relatives to deal with constipation. But back when they (or more likely, their parents) were kids, Scandinavian-style prunes simmered in water or cream were a staple on hotel and steamship menus. Presumably the plumbing was up to snuff.

Boston-Style Coffee

On some menus of the early 1900s, there was a premium charged for "Boston coffee," and it's not because it was roasted and shipped down from Beantown. Boston-style coffee just means that it's made with extra cream, which may be poured into the cup before the brew. From time to time, you might still hear someone ordering that way out of habit (likely picked up from a much-older relative along the way), and see a very confused barista wondering what the heck they mean.

Kidneys

Do ya like kidneys, kid? You're in luck, or at least you would have been way back when they were a fixture on just about every breakfast menu. They might be beef, pork, or lamb kidneys, sauteed with a side or mushrooms, or stewed in water and served on toast, or presented as Eggs Meyerbeer—broiled and served with shirred eggs topped with a rich wine laced, truffle-laden Sauce Perigueux. No kidding.

Old Philadelphia Stewed Kidney

Wash and dry the kidney and cut into inch pieces; put on to boil in a pot of cold water; as soon as boiling point is reached, remove from the fire, turn in colander and drain, rinse in cold water and dry. Dust lightly with flour; put three tablespoons of shortening in a pot; when hot toss in the kidney, browning carefully; then add two cups of water, which must be boiling, and cook until the kidney is tender. Then season with salt and pepper, five tablespoons of catsup, three tablespoons of vinegar; add one tablespoon each of grated onion and fine chopped parsley. Serve on toast for breakfast. —Mrs. Wilson's Cook Book: Numerous New Recipes Based on Present Economic Conditions (1920)

Cerealine

 

PHOTO BY FLICKR USER INDIANA HISTORICAL BUREAU

An Indiana man named Joseph Gent patented machinery and processes to mass-produce flaked Indian corn, based on a discovery by mill worker James Vannoy where close contact between the rollers forced the corn to come out in flakes. (When Vannoy told Gent about his discovery, he was to he was neglecting his duties and to get back to work. Gent later applied for the patent himself.) By 1880, Gaff, Gent, & Thomas Co. set up shop in Columbus, Indiana, to make Cerealine Flakes. According to their marketing materials, they were "made from pure white Maize, contains, by the exactest chemical analysis, more actual nourishment than any other preparation of the cereals, and this nourishment is, by the exactest test, more digestible than that of any other farinaceous food known." This precursor to cold breakfast cereals was soluble in liquids, meaning that it was especially appealing to home cooks seeking a quick meal solution. Read "Before There Was Cereal There Was Cerealine"

Frumenty

This porridge-like dish has amassed a new wave of fans due to a revival at Heston Blumenthal's London restaurant Dinner, but as a breakfast food, it's been around since at least the 14th century. More recently, though (OK, a century ago, but just go with me), this dish made of newly-cut, cracked, and soaked wheat that was cooked for at least 12 hours, then boiled with milk, flour, raisins, and currants just before serving. Blumenthal's version skews more toward the traditionally fancier preparation—with a sliceable polenta-like texture, paired with octopus, lobster, and sea vegetables in a smoky broth.

Frumenty

Wash well a pint of best wheat, and soak for twenty-four hours in water just sufficient to cover. Put the soaked wheat in a covered earthen baking pot or jar, cover well with water, and let it cook in a very slow oven for twelve hours. This may be done the day before it is wanted, or if one has a coal range in which a fire may be kept all night, or an Aladdin oven, the grain may be started in the evening and cooked at night. When desired for use, put in a saucepan with three pints of milk, a cupful of well-washed Zante currants, and one cup of seeded raisins. Boil together for a few minutes, thicken with four tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smooth in a little cold milk, and serve. —Science in the Kitchen by Mrs. E. E. Kellogg (1893)

Pettijohn's Breakfast Food

"Some people labor under the delusion that a cereal must taste like bran to be hygienic. Other people eat mushy, tasteless cereals because they think them healthful. There's no sense in this. Pettijohn's Breakfast Food is the most healthful, strength-giving cereal made, and at the same time, it is the most deliciously appetizing cereal. It is delicate, and yet there is true depth in its taste that only the full, white wheat can give. It is distinctly good to eat." So claims the side of a Pettijohn's Breakfast Food package from 1900, and who are we modern folks to question it? The "flaked breakfast food" was so ubiquitous on menus of the era, it was listed simply as "Pettijohn's."

Brains and Eggs

 

Photo courtesy of adrian miller

Before you turn up your snout at this classic Southern dish, note that culinary legend James Beard and the authors of The Joy of Cooking and The Boston Cooking School Cook Book all saw fit to include this heady harvest-time recipe to their collections. As food historian Adrian Miller notes, "Though scrambled eggs and brains were eaten in every nook and corner of our country, at any time of the day, at some point the dish became known as a special breakfast in the American South. No one is specifically credited with creating scrambled eggs and brains, but the person who first did so probably figured that the two ingredients went well together because they have a similar texture when cooked." Read "Scrambled Eggs and Brains Are Coming Back from the Dead"

Eggs Rossini

Italian composer Gioachino Antonio Rossini was singing with the heavenly choir by the end of 1868, but apparently he was held in such high esteem that as late as 1917, shirred eggs a la Rossini could be found on the occasional menu. Then again, the man had good—or at least luxurious—taste. Not only are Tournedos Rossini (a voluptuous preparation of filets mignon, foie gras, demi-glace, truffles, and Madeira) named for the famous gourmand; his signature egg preparation deploys multiple chicken livers and a garnish of lavishly buttered mushrooms.

[Ken Gargett]

i perhaps should have started with mine.

have brekkie most days, unless in a rush or possibly a big dinner the night before. 

usually, a gargle with a reflux ginger health thing rob put me onto. a big cold glass of water with some fresh lemon juice mixed with cayenne pepper and then my own homemade muesli, all of which sits on a bed of physillum husk soaked in juice, usually prepared at least a day earlier and all left to soak. which kind of makes me sound like a tosser (it really is much more simple and nice than it sounds). 

i will splurge occasionally if staying in a nice hotel and they have a good breakfast restaurant.

my fave breakfasts would be when fishing on fraser island. we come back after fishing and someone will grill fresh tailor with lemon. perhaps a snag and an egg or two. all with a glass or three of champers, sometimes a good rose fizz. usually, once or twice, i will make scrambled eggs (the guys were very wary the first time, and now they line up and insist). i have to confess that it is through no brilliance of mine. rather, quite a few years back, tetsuya, one of the greatest chefs on the planet, showed me how he did it. magic. they are the best scrambled eggs on the face of the earth. a reason to believe in a higher power. a work of art. easy, fantastic. and best of all, secret! 

and then those who want to, settle back on the deck with more fizz, overlooking the pacific ocean, and have a morning cigar. usually there will be whales leaping in the bay in front.

does not get much better. 

[ayepatz]

Daily breakfast - bowl of cereal, couple of pieces of fruit, fruit juice, lots of coffee.

Special breakfast - smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, bottle of Pol Roger (wife’s favourite)

Favourite breakfast - bacon, eggs, potato scone, haggis, black pudding, fruit juice, coffee, wee dram of Speyside, newspaper, second helpings of everything, (this has now been banned my wife, owing to my resemblance to the gable end of a house)

[Ken Gargett]

2 minutes ago, ayepatz said:

Daily breakfast - bowl of cereal, couple of pieces of fruit, fruit juice, lots of coffee.

Special breakfast - smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, bottle of Pol Roger (wife’s favourite)

Favourite breakfast - bacon, eggs, potato scone, haggis, black pudding, fruit juice, coffee, wee dram of Speyside, newspaper, second helpings of everything, (this has now been banned my wife, owing to my resemblance to the gable end of a house)

black pudding. yes. perfect brekkie food. must confess i cooked some for dinner last night. 

[dvickery]

Daily breakfast ... black coffee

derrek

[ayepatz]

43 minutes ago, Ken Gargett said:

black pudding. yes. perfect brekkie food. must confess i cooked some for dinner last night. 

For the full coronary delight, there’s also fruit pudding (suet, currants, spices, etc), and white pudding (which is basically black pudding but without the blood).

I’ve never found either outside Scotland, but I’m sure there will be local versions, particularly in Ireland.

Breakfast fodder fit for a King (probably quite short-lived).

[Ken Gargett]

Just now, ayepatz said:

For the full coronary delight, there’s also fruit pudding (suet, currants, spices, etc), and white pudding (which is basically black pudding but without the blood).

I’ve never found either outside Scotland, but I’m sure there will be local versions, particularly in Ireland.

Breakfast fodder fit for a King (probably quite short-lived).

fruit pudding is new to me but white pudding is quite common here. often buy white pudding. love it. 

[ayepatz]

3 minutes ago, Ken Gargett said:

fruit pudding is new to me but white pudding is quite common here. often buy white pudding. love it. 

Obviously, kippers (smoked herring) should get an honourable mention, too.

Arbroath Smokies (a Scottish regional version of smoked haddock), served with hot, buttered toast, is arguably one of the finest brekkies I’ve ever had. 

Now, THERE’S a wine pairing challenge for you, Ken!

[Akela3rd]

Protein shake on work days because I'll up too early to face real food but enormous old English sausage and smoked bacon sarnie on wholemeal at the weekend. Straight from the butchers and bakers and on the table by 7.30am. Strong coffee and a small cigar to follow. Great way to set up the day, whatever it might have in store.

[anacostiakat]

Typical breakfast for me during the week is usually a half cup of plain whole milk yogurt with mixed fruit (strawberries, pineapple, cantaloupe and honeydew melon or blueberries) and a handful of mixed nuts.  Sometimes I replace the yogurt with cottage cheese.

On the weekends it varies depending on the season.  Hardboiled egg on whole wheat toast.  Omelets (cheese and/or ham) or scrambled or over easy with whole wheat toast and bacon.  In the colder moths sometimes pancakes or waffles. 

Coffee always. 

 

[99call]

Daily Breakfast: Coffee, wholemeal toast, Frank Coopers dark marmalade

Favorite Breakfast :Link Bury Black pudding, slowly simmered good quality tinned toms with a glug of olive oil sea salt, and loads of fresh black pepper. and an toasted sour dough

Coffee.   Sunday Times, and (only reformed cigarette smokers will understand) a couple of Camels/Lucky Strike/Malboro reds.  Haven't smoked cigarettes for years, but I remember feeling truly sorry for non smokers, and it strangely made breakfast 100 times better. 

[99call]

Can throughly recommend 'Kedgeree' kind of enjoy the English version (when I want a bit of comfort food), but i think making it closer to what I imagine the original version is best.

Poach smoked haddock in skimmed milk,  once cooked drain and cool. Fry toast biriyani spices with a heaped teaspoon of Bolsts (hot) curry powder with butter. add rice, haddock infused milk, a tablespoon of yogurt, and simmer until rice is cooked and fluffy, add flaked haddock, slow cooked fried onions, chopped boiled eggs, and loads of fresh chopped corriander.         Lovely stuff

[ayepatz]

11 hours ago, 99call said:

Daily Breakfast: Coffee, wholemeal toast, Frank Coopers dark marmalade

Favorite Breakfast :Link Bury Black pudding, slowly simmered good quality tinned toms with a glug of olive oil sea salt, and loads of fresh black pepper. and an toasted sour dough

Coffee.   Sunday Times, and (only reformed cigarette smokers will understand) a couple of Camels/Lucky Strike/Malboro reds.  Haven't smoked cigarettes for years, but I remember feeling truly sorry for non smokers, and it strangely made breakfast 100 times better. 

I quit from 40 Marlboro reds a day to zilch 20 years ago, and I know exactly what you mean. ??

[99call]

9 hours ago, ayepatz said:

I quit from 40 Marlboro reds a day to zilch 20 years ago, and I know exactly what you mean. ??

It's weird isn't! I never want to smoke cigarettes again, but I'm never shitty or dismissive to those that still do. When you know of the enjoyment of a morning cigarette with the paper, and coffee, I look back fondly, not in disgust.

[Peekay]

Always a Latte and a Reyes/Siglo I. 

[HarveyBoulevard]

Typical Breakfast:  Two eggs over medium, two pieces dry toast, half slice avocado, orange or banana, two cups of coffee.  Usually on weekends and a couple weekdays.

Favorite Breakfast:  Three scrambled eggs with cheese, grits with butter, hash browns, two pieces of toast with butter (one with grape or strawberry jelly on it), three pieces of turkey sausage, two cups of coffee.  Only a couple times a year.

Quick Breakfast:  If I don't have time for typical, I grab a yogurt with granola mixed in along with two cups of coffee.  Usually 2-3 weekdays.

[cfc1016]

4 raw eggs for me. Quick, easy, protein rich. 

[ayepatz]

1 hour ago, 99call said:

It's weird isn't! I never want to smoke cigarettes again, but I'm never shitty or dismissive to those that still do. When you know of the enjoyment of a morning cigarette with the paper, and coffee, I look back fondly, not in disgust.

I always used to love the first of the day. You’d get a real buzz from it.

[RijkdeGooier]

10 hours ago, ayepatz said:

Daily breakfast - bowl of cereal, couple of pieces of fruit, fruit juice, lots of coffee.

Special breakfast - smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, bottle of Pol Roger (wife’s favourite)

Favourite breakfast - bacon, eggs, potato scone, haggis, black pudding, fruit juice, coffee, wee dram of Speyside, newspaper, second helpings of everything, (this has now been banned my wife, owing to my resemblance to the gable end of a house)

Exactly spot on except for the Haggis. 

Most memorable special breakfast in an old manor just outside Dublin. Linen, silverware, wonderful eggs and salmon and great company?

[Smallclub]

2 hours ago, 99call said:

It's weird isn't! I never want to smoke cigarettes again, but I'm never shitty or dismissive to those that still do. When you know of the enjoyment of a morning cigarette with the paper, and coffee, I look back fondly, not in disgust.

The breakfast cigarette is my only good, positive memory of cigarettes… and yes it made tea and coffee better and gave me a kick to start the day…

Nowadays my breakfast is made of black tea, black coffee and black tobacco… (more often Oriental+Red Virginia pipe tobacco actually).

[oliverdst]

Typical breakfast: one cup of coffee with milk, bread, butter, cheese.

Favourite breakfast: good beer and cigar (not kidding).

[El Hoze]

I am not a breakfast person. I usually have a black cuban coffee when I get up, then drink a protein shake after my AM workout and go right into an early lunch. 

When we do eat a big weekend breakfast we typically do eggs, avocado salad w pickled onions cilantro. maybe some cucumber, etc., some cold cuts drizzled w olive oil and vinegar, black beans, and some cheese. The Mrs is from DR so sometimes we’ll do mangu, which is like mashed plantains we make with sour cream and onions. I don’t eat it much but it’s good. 

My splurge breakfast stuff would be like a Boon Framboise, or three. Typically do those New Years Day. I also love caviar, creme fraiche, and blinis for breakfast. A few weeks ago I ate 3 oz of caviar in one sitting. When I see St. Peter at Heavens Gate he may dock me a few points but I likely won’t make the cut anyway. 

[Engineer99]

I don't eat breakfast most days...sometimes it a time thing, most of the time I'm just not hungry in the morning.

On one end my favorite simple breakfast is corn flakes with whole milk.

When I'm in the mood for a full blown breakfast, I like 3 eggs over easy, 4 or 5 strips of bacon, hash brown potatoes or home fries, generously buttered multigrai or sourdough toast with strawberry jam, and a pancake or waffle or two with real maple syrup, and coffee.

Yeah...pretty pedestrian, but both hit the comfort zones and do the job. I don't live in LA anymore, but if I did and could do it everyday, I'd go to Square One, near the Scientology headquarters that has the best version of every element in the second breakfast.