Help with Humidor-- too humid!?

[nolahabanos]

Hi all,

I just got a new air conditioning unit for the room where I keep my cigars, and while it is very powerful and keeps the room at about 68 degrees F, it spends a lot of time in fan mode, blowing humid New Orleans air from the outside without the drying effect the condenser provides cooling. As a result, I can't get my humidor to go below 73% humidity. I use the Cigar Oasis electronic unit, which is great in dry conditions but does not serve as a great buffer in more humid conditions. What should I do? Silica gel packs? 62% bovedas? Help!

 

 

[Riverstyx]

Everything I've read suggests Heartfelt beads are best.  I just started using them recently and they work great so far to take humidity out of the air when it gets too high.  But, I'm just a noob so take my recommendation with a grain of salt.  

[BuzzArd]

Welcome to the forum.  Tell us more about your storage unit.  How big?  How many cigars?  

[Sprouthog]

Passive humidification i.e. beads, bags or KL are best at removing moisture. As to which is best for your application that maybe trial and error. What rh are you trying to achieve?


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[PigFish]

Welcome to the forum...

Like Buzzy said, the more details you can provide, the better the answers and solutions will be!

I suggest reading the instructions on you air conditioner!!! Why...? Well, today even window AC units are electronically controlled. Your unit, should not be blowing outside air in your room. Why...? Well, your higher rH air is harder to cool, as water takes energy to cool and it largely sticks to the evaporator coil, causing ice and wasting your energy. PLUS, humans feel cooler when the rH in their environment is lower and this is a byproduct of forced air HVAC systems.

You have one of two problems that you can (potentially) be avoided by understanding your AC, or replacing it. One, is that if there is an outside ventilation control, it should be able to halted via a setting. This setting should only be used in an area where outside 'makeup' air is required. And generally you won't require it. Second is that once the AC is shutting off, the system moves to a 'de-ice' mode and cooks the ice off the cooling coil. This is what I think is happening. The water should drip out the back (outside) the unit, but the flow of air over the coil brings some of that water right back into the room, causing your problem AND increasing your energy costs. Dry air cools faster and more efficiently than wet air. Cooling wet air costs you money, and while it may not be your concern, it is to these makers that must seer rate their equipment.

So there are two potential solutions here. One is to make sure you cut off all outside 'makeup' air. The other is to kill the constant fan circulation when the unit is not running. When the unit cycles off, have the fan cycle off with it. The water will still be accessible to the room via normal evaporation, but forced air evaporation is far more damaging to your desire to keep net rH negative.

This then is not a problem with your storage, it is a problem with your AC and should be treated as such. Of course air leakage (air exchanges) with your ambient (outside) will affect the air quality with your ambient (inside). You need to analyze your system for this but from what I am reading, simple tuning of your AC system should fix much of this for you. Buy a separate fan if you need one, but stop using the AC unit fan as it is simply returning the water once stripped from your internal space back to it when not operating the compressor.

Best of luck on your projects! -Piggy

[TBird55]

I live on the Gulf coast and battle the humidity as you. My house like yours is air conditioned, but during the summer the humidity creeps up. I take my humidification devices out, during the summer months, and the humidity stays between 63 - 65.