China Hutch Humidor Conversion with Pics!

[Steens]

Great skills mate

[Strada]

Wow great project. Thanks for the details and photos. I am glad to see your finger is OK Lol

[PigFish]

First, I would like to say congratulations on your project… Nice job!

I know that my advice is unsolicited and perhaps unappreciated but I am going to pitch it anyway. Before you take delivery of a TE unit and a controller for it, I hope that you have made a study of the ambient conditions for the home of your humidor and done some calculations on the energy requirements necessary for your project to work based on your insulation including your glass front.

Most of us who build insulated humidors are using somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5 inches of insulation. Insulation is an important part of the overall system in that if it is not sufficient, your cooler will tend to work only as a dehydrator and not a cooler at all. I bring this up, not as a 'buzz killer,' but as a means to possibly save you a bunch of heartache and a wad of money! These large glass areas are another potential problem. Without double pane glass, you will be fighting a losing battle trying to keep energy from entering your humidor.

I am sorry if you think my post is negative, that is not my intention. Perhaps you have done the math and know already that the unit you are creating is going to work. If that is the case, sorry for wasting your time. BUT, if you have not, you might want to consult an energy calculator to establish the basis for the size of the TE cooler that you will require to meet your energy transfer requirements.

Remember, the longer a cooler runs, the more water it will strip from the interior of your humidor. Attached is a cooling cycle analysis for your examination.

Sure, you can put water back with a humidifier, but long cycles will simply deplete your humidifier and create a small pond for you when all the ice melts. My advice is to do some research (if you have not done it already) before you start dumping money into coolers and controls.

One must balance appliances, controls and design, including all the insulation that you have room for in order to reign in the contrary effects of cooling on humidification. I have recently pushed my cooling envelop longer in order to reduce the actual number of cooling cycles per hour in temperatures above 75dF (ambients). There was a time when I would not have attempted this due to the lack of proper controls and appliances for fear of over hydration at the end of the cycle and deep dehydration cooling cycles. "Close" control is only one part of the whole system and the point I am making is that insulation is an important part of this "system."

If you are thinking, you can just add more cooling… you cannot just add a larger TE unit without consequences! The more it runs the more you will battle the war of heat/hydration balance in your humidor.

Insulation is a huge part of an effective, cooled, humidor. Without trying to offend you, I think you are under insulated here. Just my 2 cts!

Best of luck on your project. Cheers, the Pig

[Goble]

Hey, no offence taken, I actually appreciate it! Sounds like you know what your talking bout. I really have done no research on the subject other than thinking build it, slap a cooler in it and done LOL! I just figured a cabinet that size with a little insulation would be easily cooled 10-15 degrees below ambient. What you said is way beyond my technical understanding other than the bottom line, which was what I was planning won't work. Sounds like my plans for an internal cooler just might not happen after all ; (

Also, from what you said I am now assuming that a TE Cooler is nothing like an air conditioner. I know the best thing would be to keep the whole room AC'd at 70 degrees, which might be what I have to do in the end. One other thing I was thinking is maybe using a small 5,000 BTU window unit on a Solid State Switch and ducting the air into the cabinet. Do you think that would work or would I still be running into the same problems, as I would with the TE Cooler?

[PigFish]

I am glad that you did not take offense to the post. I often wonder if I should interfere with the projects of others and how my opinion will be perceived.

You can contact me at [email protected] if you have questions that you would like addressed off the forum, my time permitting.

Cheers, Ray

[sheppsea]

Great project - that cabinet looks fantastic (my wife even commented on how nice it looks and mention that it might be a nice thing to do - maybe she's coming round to the idea of allow more storage space for cigars )

[Goble]

Sorry y'all, I have several more pics to post, but my Wi-Fi has been down the last few days at home. It's just to much trouble to upload and add descriptions to everything from my phone. Hope to get it up and running this weekend, so be on the lookout for my next post!

[Goble]

Finally got my Internet back up and running!


(#52) All strips to form the outside frame of the shelves cut out and grooved to receive the bottom of the shelf.




(#53) Cutting the air circulation holes in the bottom of the shelves.




(#54) First shelf bottom cut out!




(#55) First shelf glued together and finished!




(#56) Short shelf bottom.




(#57) First short shelf glued up.




(#5 All shelves finally in! Decided to take the bottom one out in order to have a place to store full boxes of cigars. Think I still got plenty of space for singles LOL!

[Goble]

(#59) On to sealing around the door. Don't want a 100% air tight seal in the cabinet, but at least a 90%. It needs a little fresh air circulation in order to avoid molding. Ran foam sticky back weather stripping up the hinge side.






(#60) Bottom door seal. Used crushable Oasis floral foam to get the exact gap that needed to be filled for a tight fit.




(#61) Top door seal done in two pieces.




(#62) Seal on the locking side.





All and all its starting to come together nicely!

[IPORTER]

Incredible work mate! Beautiful looking.

[AndrewNR]

My god.. This is incredible! Fantastic craftsmanship! Looks beautiful what a great way to re-purpose it!

[Goble]

[Goble]

[Goble]

Thanks for all the positive comments. It's still not quit done yet, but I have been hard at work and have made some major progress, as can be seen by the following pics!

(64) Cutting and splicing in extension leads for the LED lights that will run from shelf to shelf. Pretty easy, just cut the strip on the little scissor lines. Then with a razor blade cut through the silicone coating.

(65) Be careful not to cut through the circuit board. Only enough to clear the silicone and uncover the contacts.

(66) Tin the wire ends.

(67) Also Tin the contacts on the light strips. Tinning both the wires and contacts is a key part to getting a good Solder Joint. If you have a cold joint, which is where it melts to one side and not the other the lights will not work!

(68) Soldering complete with the wires and contacts melted together. Tug on the connection to make sure it is good.

(69) Add a little silicone to the connection to make it water tight and apply Shrink Wrap.

(70) Installing lights in cabinet. You can see the jumper wire extensions I had to add in on the sides for the distance between each shelf. The two wires in the center will connect to the back of the control box.

(71) 1,200 LED lights installed with two 600 LED Light Strips!

(72) All lit up! The indicator lights in the box have since been toned down a bit, as well, as can be seen in latter pics.

The next set of pics is a bit of a surprise I have been working on. I didn't want to mention it until I knew I could do it and make it happen. So, after having originally deciding to go with a Habitat Monitor and researching the only three custom Active Humidifying Systems on the market at $300 - $500 plus I decided to design my own. I can also custom make these for anyone who would want a active system. Lot of work and time in this, but I'm dang proud of it!!!

(73) Introducing the GC1-4 Humidification System!

(74) All the humidification fans in the boxes will be connected with DC plugs for a clean install and ease of removing the boxes for water refills.

(75) One of the boxes with fan installed and before the silicone treatment to seal it.

(76) Each unit was first lined with a thin layer of silicone then three coats of Plasti Dip followed by another thin skin coat of silicone. Very, very water tight. Each box holds just over two quarts of water for a total of 2 1/2 gallons for the system. I will be using humidification crystals in these, as well.

(77) For those who might be seeing this an don't know exactly how it all works, the fans will blow across the water forcing moist air out of the breather holes in the boxes, thus humidifying the air inside the cabinet.

(78) The brains of the system is ran by a Willhi Humidity and Temp Controller. This will kick the box fans on at 69% Humidity and off at 71% or whatever the set point is. It was within .03 accuracy by the salt test right out of the box! The Temp Controller can control a heating and/or cooling unit. I will have it hooked to the AC Unit in the room with the probe inside the cabinet and set to kick on at 70 degrees and off at 71.

(79) Internal working of the control box. Contains three power supplies, 24Hr Timer, the two control units, manual on off switch for lights, Two indicator lights to indicate when the humidity fans or circulating fans are running and a fan mounted to the top of the box to run 24Hrs a day to keep the electronics cool!

(80) All wiring connections made on the back of the box for a clean install.

(81) The Model # is GC1-4. My initials followed by a 1 to indicate the first unit I built followed by a 4 to indicate it is a 4 box system. Again, I can build these for anyone who would want a little cheaper alternative to the other big three custom humidification builders.

Next will be the install of all the circulation fans and humidification boxes, so stay tuned!

[CUBANO]

very impressive

[jeremyk]

Looks great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Pedro2486]

Thanks for all the positive comments. It's still not quit done yet, but I have been hard at work and have made some major progress, as can be seen by the following pics!

(64) Cutting and splicing in extension leads for the LED lights that will run from shelf to shelf. Pretty easy, just cut the strip on the little scissor lines. Then with a razor blade cut through the silicone coating.

(65) Be careful not to cut through the circuit board. Only enough to clear the silicone and uncover the contacts.

(66) Tin the wire ends.

(67) Also Tin the contacts on the light strips. Tinning both the wires and contacts is a key part to getting a good Solder Joint. If you have a cold joint, which is where it melts to one side and not the other the lights will not work!

(68) Soldering complete with the wires and contacts melted together. Tug on the connection to make sure it is good.

(69) Add a little silicone to the connection to make it water tight and apply Shrink Wrap.

(70) Installing lights in cabinet. You can see the jumper wire extensions I had to add in on the sides for the distance between each shelf. The two wires in the center will connect to the back of the control box.

(71) 1,200 LED lights installed with two 600 LED Light Strips!

(72) All lit up! The indicator lights in the box have since been toned down a bit, as well, as can be seen in latter pics.

The next set of pics is a bit of a surprise I have been working on. I didn't want to mention it until I knew I could do it and make it happen. So, after having originally deciding to go with a Habitat Monitor and researching the only three custom Active Humidifying Systems on the market at $300 - $500 plus I decided to design my own. I can also custom make these for anyone who would want a active system. Lot of work and time in this, but I'm dang proud of it!!!

(73) Introducing the GC1-4 Humidification System!

(74) All the humidification fans in the boxes will be connected with DC plugs for a clean install and ease of removing the boxes for water refills.

(75) One of the boxes with fan installed and before the silicone treatment to seal it.

(76) Each unit was first lined with a thin layer of silicone then three coats of Plasti Dip followed by another thin skin coat of silicone. Very, very water tight. Each box holds just over two quarts of water for a total of 2 1/2 gallons for the system. I will be using humidification crystals in these, as well.

(77) For those who might be seeing this an don't know exactly how it all works, the fans will blow across the water forcing moist air out of the breather holes in the boxes, thus humidifying the air inside the cabinet.

(78) The brains of the system is ran by a Willhi Humidity and Temp Controller. This will kick the box fans on at 69% Humidity and off at 71% or whatever the set point is. It was within .03 accuracy by the salt test right out of the box! The Temp Controller can control a heating and/or cooling unit. I will have it hooked to the AC Unit in the room with the probe inside the cabinet and set to kick on at 70 degrees and off at 71.

(79) Internal working of the control box. Contains three power supplies, 24Hr Timer, the two control units, manual on off switch for lights, Two indicator lights to indicate when the humidity fans or circulating fans are running and a fan mounted to the top of the box to run 24Hrs a day to keep the electronics cool!

(80) All wiring connections made on the back of the box for a clean install.

(81) The Model # is GC1-4. My initials followed by a 1 to indicate the first unit I built followed by a 4 to indicate it is a 4 box system. Again, I can build these for anyone who would want a little cheaper alternative to the other big three custom humidification builders.

Next will be the install of all the circulation fans and humidification boxes, so stay tuned!

Nice dude. I'd be really interested in a schematic if you have one and don't mind sharing.

Well done

[PigFish]

Oh, mate, you have been busy since we last spoke! That is quite a project you have got there!

Some tips!

Unless that is gonna' be one dry environment, that is a lot of water that you have in there. Could be wrong but, you will need to test but 4 humidifiers looks like a lot to me. Consider trying two and using expanded paper wicking under the fan. With the right design these will change humidity in a box like no tomorrow. Be careful how much free water you place in the system!

I would not place your controller box in the cabinet. 3 power supplies are going to cause quite a bit of heat. You should consider unifying the power supplies and buying a nice high power switching unit.

My gut feeling tells me that running a probe inside the humidor and controlling cooling outside the humidor is going to present itself in large wave form oscillations and you are going to use a lot of energy doing it. You will likely set up a long wave length resonance cause by the hysteresis of the heat loss and then subsequent gain in the china cabinet. Now if the cooler itself has a good temperature control, you can balance this with the temperature control on the AC unit making sure that it will not over cool the room.

BUT, what you could do as well is buy another one of those little controllers of yours and run them in series, say via a double throw relay and not allow the AC to run beyond a point, say 1dF below that of the set point of the humidor. This might go a long way in reducing the hysteresis effect and the resonance that I believe will follow. Put the sensor right outside the humidor and if the controller uses double throw relay, then a signal from inside the humidor won't be answered by overcooling the room.

I tip my hat to another that is not afraid to turn and screwdriver (and bloody some digits -LOL) to go where no man has gone before!!

Cheers, Ray

[Goble]

Thanks PigFish, I wont be filling the boxes with straight water. The two quarts plus is just what they will/would hold in liquid form. I will be using well hydrated Chrystals in these.

The heat from the control box I don't think will be enough to worry about, as everything will not be running at the same time and what does run will only be kicking on and running for a very short time, so not a lot heat. I have also decided to use the thermostat, as a constant power supply to run four circulation fans on a timer set to run for thirty minutes 3-4 times a day and just use the temp control on the AC unit to control temp in the room, so again not much heat generated. The lights of course will only be on when I'm looking for something or when company is coming over, so vertually no heat at all from them or there power supply. I will keep an eye on everything and do some experimenting, but I think the parameters will be ok for a seamless operation?

[PigFish]

Thanks PigFish, I wont be filling the boxes with straight water. The two quarts plus is just what they will/would hold in liquid form. I will be using well hydrated Chrystals in these.

The heat from the control box I don't think will be enough to worry about, as everything will not be running at the same time and what does run will only be kicking on and running for a very short time, so not a lot heat. I have also decided to use the thermostat, as a constant power supply to run four circulation fans on a timer set to run for thirty minutes 3-4 times a day and just use the temp control on the AC unit to control temp in the room, so again not much heat generated. The lights of course will only be on when I'm looking for something or when company is coming over, so vertually no heat at all from them or there power supply. I will keep an eye on everything and do some experimenting, but I think the parameters will be ok for a seamless operation?

The AC/DC converters will be running all the time if plugged in. That is primarily what I am talking about. With 3 of them in there, even at idle they will put out some heat, but it is just a suggestion! As stated, I would put the power supplies outside (at least) and run the power (DC) inside.

As for me, I rarely use cheapie AC/DC converters anymore. They are not worth the risk…

I have toasted many of these AC/DC power (converter) power supplies. I sell them for some applications, but not for inside the humidor use. A lot of these are really cheap products. A good one, say 1A at wholesale will cost between $15 and $20. This is more than what most of the bundled products cost… That means that the $3 to $5 units (wholesale) are typically really garbage! It is one thing if it quits. It is another if it heats up and starts to stink!

When I said toast, I mean toast… One of these things starts smoking and your cigars will forever taste like burning plastic! Me, I would scrap them all, buy a nice switching power supply and mount it on the back and bring all the power inside. Cleaner install, less risk of failure and damage to expensive cigars.

Hell, if you want to save a buck and have an old computer. Take the power supply out of it (usually switching type) ID the 12VDC power (red or yellow) and hang it on the back of the hutch. One of these should power just about anything you can put into a humidor!

Nothing is foolproof and I try to plan for failure. Put a few thousand dollars worth of cigars in there and don't plan for the worst; you might really be sorry! Take the (unsolicited) advice for what it is worth.

Cheers mate! -Ray

[Goble]

Very good points my friend! I may have to reevaluate.

[chefred]

Holy cow man! What a gorgeous project!

You are a lord amongst mortals.

[str8dog]

Fantastic project! Thanks for sharing.

[jvel79]

Globe. Absolutely amazing!! Thanks for sharing your project. Hope everything work outs and you fill with hours of smoking pleasure.

[Pedro2486]

The AC/DC converters will be running all the time if plugged in. That is primarily what I am talking about. With 3 of them in there, even at idle they will put out some heat, but it is just a suggestion! As stated, I would put the power supplies outside (at least) and run the power (DC) inside.

As for me, I rarely use cheapie AC/DC converters anymore. They are not worth the risk…

I have toasted many of these AC/DC power (converter) power supplies. I sell them for some applications, but not for inside the humidor use. A lot of these are really cheap products. A good one, say 1A at wholesale will cost between $15 and $20. This is more than what most of the bundled products cost… That means that the $3 to $5 units (wholesale) are typically really garbage! It is one thing if it quits. It is another if it heats up and starts to stink!

When I said toast, I mean toast… One of these things starts smoking and your cigars will forever taste like burning plastic! Me, I would scrap them all, buy a nice switching power supply and mount it on the back and bring all the power inside. Cleaner install, less risk of failure and damage to expensive cigars.

Hell, if you want to save a buck and have an old computer. Take the power supply out of it (usually switching type) ID the 12VDC power (red or yellow) and hang it on the back of the hutch. One of these should power just about anything you can put into a humidor!

Nothing is foolproof and I try to plan for failure. Put a few thousand dollars worth of cigars in there and don't plan for the worst; you might really be sorry! Take the (unsolicited) advice for what it is worth.

Cheers mate! -Ray

Piggy, you are a genius. I never even thought of ripping out an ATX power supply out of the case. I'm stealing this for sure.

Thanks bro